dark to light to dark
Material selection is the starting point for me. I have to fall in love with a material, and begin a relationship. If that relationship works, the material shows me what I should do with it.
The new body of work, including the BI and Palette pieces, are made using dichroic mirror, which reflects two different colours. This material is used in optical applications and architecture. I was immediately fascinated by its unusual colour reflections and knew immediately I wanted to make jewellery with it.
The BI pendant is made to a very strict form. It's just a round shape with a forged silver frame and coloured string. I wanted to reduce the form as much as possible to get the materiality to come forward strongly. The title "BI" comes from the English prefix meaning two, like bi-cycle, bi-lingual or bi-sexual. But for me, the word "BI" has a very open meaning – after this word always comes another word.
It’s not only about the two colours but also about the openness of perception.
The Palette brooches came next. Wearing one, you see strong, colourful shadows on the white corian base. The shape of the shadow changes depending on the light direction; where it comes from or where you are. For me the light is a living thing. It is moving everywhere, getting stronger or weaker, changing colour... actually people are wearing light, but most of us don’t realise it.
Jiro Kamata, 2015